Moby Dick, the great American novel, was inspired by a whale that lived off the coast of the Isla Mocha, Region XIII de Chile. Mocha Dick was a white sperm whale, large and powerful before being killed by whalers. Then around 1953 an American came to the island and killed approximately 5,000 seals for the oil to make and export lassos. Now under protection, some fishermen carry shotguns in case they interfere with the catch, as protection is not enforced. Times progress, but they do not change.
Although the island has developed some since the 1800s, it is decades behind the mainland in terms of use of modern machines; life on the countryside feels hectic in comparison. But visiting the island is not so much like going back in time as it is going back to basics. Many of the inhabitants are artisanal fisherman or ranchers, living near the shore as the center of the island is preserved as a national nature reserve. The primary source of transportation is horse and cart, on simple roads made of shells. But one of the starkest differences is that island was still lacking electricity. Electrical power lines have been built to supply electricity using natural oil dispensed on the south side of the island, which should arrive by 2012 for 4-6 hours a day. If and when electricity becomes constant more than anything else locals desire refrigeration. Except for pasta and rice, dried goods like that- all the food is fresh. Mollusks, clams, fish, organic vegetables, lamb, chicken, beef, pork, shellfish, blackberries…but without refrigeration it is impossible to save excess. With it residents say they would eat like kings. Thanks to generators, television and cable is available on the island, but the energy is extremely expensive. Cold showers are year-round, but electrical shower water heaters are already installed for when electricity is available. Even a few hours of electricity will be a drastic change.
One of the most interesting aspects of the island is the drastic difference between the peripheries and the center. It is as if you were to slice an avocado in half; the center is a pit of dark, mountainous dense, forest with high biodiversity and threatened species. But on the outside it is green, flat grazing land where the sun will burn you alive if you do not carry protection. In previous time periods the ocean was higher, covering much of the pastures, and in February 2010 the tsunami came up to the main road, carrying with it a few houses as it returned. Walking down the street it is not unlikely for a loose horse to cross your path, or to see a pack of horses galloping towards the ocean. Although not necessarily wild, some are far more tame than others. The funny thing about the island is that automobiles have never seemed more impractical and more out of place, so the original horse power prevails. Times progress, but they do not change.
Bienvenidos! Grazing and cattle farming occurs on the level borders of the island, whereas the mountainous center is protected as a National Reserve.
The native forest growth is vastly different than the lower grazing land and from the mainland, which is dominated by the forestry industry.
An overlook from the National Reserve.
Horses are bred and graze quite freely on the island.
The roads are made of shells, lined by new power-lines for a few hours of electricity each day that should arrive in January 2012
The principal mode of transportation is still horse and cart. Cars exist but they are refreshingly impractical for most uses.
