Russet No More

Specializing in monoculture and importation, the US is not exactly a cornucopia of natural biodiversity. The value of biodiversity is significant for numerous reasons-  balance in an ecosystem, aesthetic values, economic reasons, ethical values, to find cures for ailments, the list goes on and on and the examples are endless. One more reason is that it makes life far more interesting and less predictable, particularly when it comes to dinner. How boring is it that corn is white or yellow? Grapes are green or purple. And cows are milk or meat. I yearn for the fall when instead of buying “red” or “green” apples you can choose from Pink Ladies, Fiji, Macintosh, Mutsu… the list goes on and on. Biodiversity is not just beneficial for ecosystem balance and ethical reasons, but I also like to have more than beef and Russet potatoes for dinner.

But one of the amazing things about Chiloé is that if you do decide to have beef for dinner (Rather than milcaos, curantos, shellfish, mollusks, cordero, crab, oh so many things to choose from!) the island is native to over two hundred types of potatoes. Over 230 varieties are identified on the archipelago of Chiloé, and in all of Chile there are over five hundred varieties of potatoes. However, it is true that market forces still come into effect and it may be difficult to choose from the same diversity from long ago as only a handful of species are highly commercialized. However, in the produce market of Castro it is still possible to find at least ten varieties, many of which are still exciting and “exotic”. There are purple potatoes, blue potatoes, pink potatoes, polka-dotted potatoes, and even potatoes that taste like artichokes. The Universidad Austral de Chile maintains a gene bank and information on potato varieties on the island and in the mainland, playing a vital role to the preservation of the biodiversity of this important crop.

By one estimate there are over 10,000 producers of papas on the archipelago of Chiloe; the producers of potatoes are essentially all small farms, on many of the smaller islands. Within the past several decades there has been a decrease in the number of potato production, which is speculated to be partly attributed to a decrease in the available labor because of an increase in the salmon industry. Whereas the local produce market sells more types of potatoes than you will ever find outside of bag of potato chips in an American supermarket, there are still only a handful of sellers in the local market. Like the majority of crops in Chile, the best quality and a largest quantity is exported.

Genes from native Chilote potatoes can be found all over the world. During the potato famine in the 1840s and 1850s scientists came from abroad to Latin America and Chiloe to search for new strands of potatoes, proving at least once in history the vital role of this important source of biodiversity. It is truly remarkable that a food crop as prevalent and invariable worldwide as the potato has greater genetic variability in a place just larger than Rhode Island. Whereas many people get pleasure from knowing that more varieties other than the Russet species exist just in case, it is also pleasurable to aprovechar and experience the variety that natural biodiversity offers. Have you ever tried a potato that tastes like an artichoke?

The Saturday market in Castro offers an array of fresh produce, much of which is grown on the island. Although there are more than 200 varieties from Chiloe, relatively few are available in the market throughout the year.

Although potatoes are one of the principal crops grown on the island, the majority is exported. Still, there are many different varieties of potatoes for sale in the market that come in a variety of colors, shapes and sizes. One even tastes like an artichoke.

Potato farming near the town of Puqueldón. The total yield of potatoes has decreased in recent years. Sometimes the growth of the farmed salmon industry is cited as a cause.

A plate of beef with native potatoes, from the restaurant Un Buen Amigo in Castro. Served with a chocolate mousse for dessert, I paid CHP 2.200, which is less than $4.50. Sooooooo delicious, one MUST take advantage of the cuisine when visiting Chiloe.